19 March 2005

What is it with these trees?


Tree Posted by Hello
So, is this like a giant bonzai? (Is that how you spell it?) There are sculpted trees all over the place. This one is inside Wakayama Castles's inner walls. Very pretty it is too. But why do it? More to the point - how is it done? Is it cut like that? Is this planned or spontaneous? Can't imagine it's a spur of the moment thing, so how does it get planned? Who plans how to sculpt a tree? And, when nature is so important, how come sculpting nature is so important? I don't get it!
April 2004.

Rice


Rice Posted by Hello

More rice


More rice Posted by Hello
I did rather enjoy seeing the fields and fields of rice all over the place. Rather than the large fields of corn you see in the UK these are more akin to little allotments but are all over the place, right here on the edge of town. It's very pretty too.

August 2004

Japanese Karen


Japanese Karen Posted by Hello
Another Japanese - first for me at least. Today I tried on a kimono! It was so cool and looked quite nice. To be honest the colour was not really that flattering for my colouring but it looked nice and I really enjoyed it. I couldn't believe how long it took for me to be dressed. I didn't actually do anything but stand there as I was dressed by two Japanese women. Rafa and I had gone out for a foreign students' trip to this restored house which is lovely. Part of the day was a tea ceremony which was pleasant, and then to try on a kimono. So we did. Rafa had not planned to try one on but ended up doing it anyway; I had really wanted to try one, though had intended to wait a little longer until I had lost a bit more weight. Having said that I still like the photos!! Rafa looked fabulous! Just another experience to note down.

31st October 2004

Japanese Rafa Posted by Hello

So winter is here

All of a sudden it's got rather cold. The heat of summer finally died down towards the end of September but it had still been quite pleasant. I'd been able to go out in a t-shirt or a shirt and hadn't needed a coat until this week. This week things changed and now I need a coat and a cardigan. It's cold. And it turns out that our air conditioner's heating unit doesn't work. Oh dear. We have a little electric heater that our landlord lent us but it's about 500 years old and rather dodgy. I think we are going to have to buy one ourselves. My Japanese teacher was annoyed with the weather and said that here in Wakayama you rarely need a coat in October. Granted October is over tomorrow, but even so. And this is only just the beginning. I wonder how different a Japanese winter will be from an English winter. I'm guessing that Wakayama and London will be quite similar - relatively wet and cold without being below freezing too much. We'll see. I've bought some scarves, gloves and hats. I also have my nice raincoat and have got a thick jacket. I didn't bring my winter coat with me. We'll soon see if that was a good idea or not! In a way I wish we had gone somewhere we would have had a "real" winter - like in the north of Japan or up in the mountains - as I'd really like to learn to ski and snowboard, but it's not to be. Oh well, winter is here, the nights are drawing in fast, there’s a fine drizzle outside and I’m cold. Really does sound like winter in England!

30 October 2004

We survived the typhoon -

yes, yet another one. It didn't seem too bad here but just reading the news on the internet I saw there are 38 people dead and many more unaccounted for. The main thing with this one, at least for us, was the rain. It started in the early hours of Tuesday morning and rained on and off for most of the day. Then on Wednesday the "real" rain started!!! The winds got up early in the afternoon and didn't subside until the early hours of this morning. The rain actually died down in the early evening. And, as I mentioned, this storm didn't seem as powerful as the last one that hit us when we got hit by 2 in short succession, late August early September (along with the earthquakes.)

We've had a few little shakes recently too - the latest being about 10 minutes ago. But they see to be the short sharp shock local ones. I would guess about 4.0 or less with the epicentre below the house!!! ha ha ha. Ok, not quite below the house but not far. Tell you something I've noticed about the quakes here - they are really noisy. You can hear them coming!!

I remember reading about a quake that hit Mexico in the early 20th Century. The narrator was in El Oro, the then-flourishing mining town not far from Atlacomulco, and he spoke of the noise. I'd never experienced that with Mexican quakes, I've only felt the motion. But here the noise is quite incredible.

But anyway. Just thought you'd like to know we are fine.We're keeping an eye on the typhoon that's heading for Taiwan, because this one (and the last big one that hit Tokyo) were both heading there and took a huge detour. Fingers crossed this one actually decides to go see Taiwan. We've honestly had enough!

Thursday, 21 October 2004

Ikebana part 2


Ikebana part 2 Posted by Hello
I liked this one much more than the first.

My first attempt at Ikebana


My first attempt at Ikebana. Posted by Hello
I have finally been able to try Ikebana - Japanese flower arranging. Now this may not sound like the kind of thing that I would do, but it was actually something I really wanted to try - and I loved it.

In the week I received an invitation to a short introductory course which runs for 3 Saturdays, two hours each class. So, I signed up right away. There are two more courses, one starting in November and then one in the new year which I also hope to do.

Today was my first class. We are studying the "Ohara" school of Ikebana. Apparently there are many many different schools. The whole idea is to choose your flowers very carefully and then arrange them perfectly. The focus is on simplicity, which brings out the beauty in the flowers. It's very different from western thought, that in my opinion is a question of putting lots of flowers together in nice combinations, though I must admit I don't know very much about western flower arranging. In Ikebana everything is important and all the minute details are taken into consideration. For example, you have to think about the colours, shapes and sizes of the flowers, leaves, stems and other parts of the plants you use. You must also think about the bowl or vase they are being arranged in. You must also think carefully about the whole composition as well as the individual flowers. Everything must be perfect!

Yesterday we started with a "standing" arrangement. The plants used were: 3 pieces of decorative okra (which is a reddish colour rather than the green one you can eat), 3 pale pink carnations and 2 bits of green fern. We were given a special ikebana bowl that has like a nail-cushion in it which you gently push the stems into. Then, carefully, you cut and place each item. This sounds simple but even though we had an example to follow, and the teacher drew the correct positioning of the stem and the angle on the board, she still corrected most of what I did!! I wasn't too sure I could see much difference but I took 2 photos - one of the first arrangement that she corrected and then one of my own creation and they are different - it's subtle but it's amazing how a slight variation in angle changes everything. Having said that, I'm still pretty happy about my first creation and left feeling that I'd really achieved something beautiful. I also felt nice and relaxed, which was great too. Second class next Saturday morning.

Posted Saturday, 2 October 2004

Kyoto


Kinkaku Ji, Kyoto Posted by Hello
Kyoto was awesome. Just got back and I can't find the words to describe everything we saw and did over the last 3 days. So many temples and gardens with such beauty and such peace, calm and tranquillity. I had really needed to get away and do something different and this was perfect. What a wonderful weekend. We walked and walked and walked and it was great. I also went to my very first tea ceremony that was wonderful too. We did some great shopping - both Japanese things and books - and got back to Wakayama this evening exhausted but really very happy.

Posted Sunday, 26 September 2004

I had my hair cut!


My new haircut. Posted by Hello
I finally did it - I went to the hairdressers in Japan. And how... Originally I'd thought about getting my waist-length hair trimmed, well trimmed, in fact cut - maybe even 5 or 6 inches. In the end I decided to get a whole new look - and my hair is now shoulder-length. What a change. And it's so quick to wash and dry in the mornings. So much less hassle at the gym and in the heat (that is still going on and on and on.)

I had it done the Japanese way too. First of all my hair was double washed and conditioned. I was given a head massage too which was awesome. I could have spent the whole afternoon with my head in the wash basin. After that my hair was combed and combed. Then out came the razor - that's right, a razor - and the stylist proceeded to hack my hair. Well, hack is not the word, really. He deftly sliced through endless layers of hair until it was all even, though still below my shoulders. Then he dried it and I thought we were done. No. He then went on to thin it out - quite a bit at the back which is great in the heat. This is a very Japanese thing and is done with scissors. He just seemed to cut more both at the length it was at and then a lot shorter. The end result - my hair is layered at the bottom, and thinned through the back and round. It still has the "length" from the top down to my shoulders on the top layer but has been thinned out. I hope this makes sense. Then it was given a final comb and dry and hey presto. I could have cried! It looked so fabulous. I love it. It feels so nice and fresh. A new look for me which I feel makes me look a little younger too and goes with the new body that I am slowly sculpting too. Thinner body - thinner hair. Ha ha ha.

I couldn't be happier. It looks great. It feels great. It's so much less hassle too. I even went as far as going and buying some new hair accessories for shorter hair. I'm smiling now, just remembering what a great experience this has been, and there was me worrying about having my hair cut Japanese style, but I've got to say it's one of the best cuts I've ever had, if not the best. I can't say enough about it. But I'm not going to rant any longer on here.

Posted Saturday, 11 September 2004

I really don't like typhoons

OK, so this is a pretty logical thing to say but this one is scary. I'm glad I'm not on my own! We are close to the eye now and are lucky it's not going to go right through us. The storm is a category 2 or 1 typhoon now, so that's lucky too. Even so...

The good thing was our landlady came round this evening to check we'd got the typhoon shutters down properly and she showed us why we'd only got half the shutter out and how to get it done. So we are now much better protected. The house is still shaking though and the windows rattling. It's been raining like mad since about 7 o'clock (it's now 11) so I guess we've got another 4 or 5 hours to go, according to the weather websites I've been keeping an eye on. It's quite a slow-moving storm. I really don't like it though. Funnily enough. The rain is just lashing down, no, not down, across! And the wind is howling, first at the front and then at the back, so the living room windows first bend one way then the other (even with the shutters done properly.) We have shutters on the big living room doors/windows and on the bedroom windows. Yuck. We had to bring in the washing machine and the bikes. So the washing machine is in the kitchen next to the shower room. My bike is in the kitchen and Rafa's is in the porch, which is slowly letting in water, under the doors, between the doors, over the doors, all around the doors! and through the letterbox!! But it's not coming in as much as last time, so that's good. I think compared to the last typhoon that hit (in June) this isn't raining as much (quite) but the wind is stronger and it's been stronger for quite a bit longer (and still to go on.) Right. I think that's all I've got to complain about, except there's another storm out in the Pacific that looks like it could head this way by the end of the weekend!! YUCK.

Up-date. We survived unscathed and the winds must have died down late in the night, early in the morning as they were still howling when I went to bed about 1.30. This morning it's nice and calm.

posted Monday, 30 August 2004

Memory

I know I have quite a good memory so how come I can't learn all these Japanese words?!!

You know, sometimes I feel just a little stupid! No, that's not really correct but I do, just a little. Why? Well, I think it's a question of clashing learning styles. You see, I learn words by using them a lot. I really don't like to sit down and repeat them over and over again. That's way too boring! I enjoy reading lots of things and seeing the word several times, or using the word in exercises. In that way I eventually learn the words not by learning them parrot fashion. I also worry that by learning them parrot style, I'll only have the words in my memory for a short time and then I'll forget them all!

I've now learnt about 80% of the words I'm supposed to have learnt but in class today I was given a load more!! HELP!

August 2004.

Bats

I like bats. Many people have an irrational fear of them but I must say mine don't extend to bats funnily enough, considering I hate several winged creatures but all of the insect variety but I'm getting off the point. Bats are wonderful creatures. It's just amazing how they fly so quickly through the air eating flies. I really could do with having a bat or two at home to get rid of the mosquitoes that are driving me mad!

But why do I like bats? I think in part it's because they bring back fond memories of my early teenage years sitting on a low wall at the top of the road chatting to friends on the long summer evenings. Just occasionally we would hear the bats squeak or see them swoop past.

My first real experience of seeing them up close (and personal) was in the "Bat Cave" (I kid you not) at Morelia Zoo in Mexico. This is literally an underground cave that has been made especially for the bats. Now, I'm not too fond of zoos and had just gone along to keep my friends company but I was totally fascinated by the bats. Once you get accustomed to the dark you can see them interacting in their own environment - not really a natural one and it's quite small but interacting just the same. I was shocked by the way the were hanging from the ceiling and seemed to almost fall as they went to dive down to the fruit bowls. They would then pick up a bit of fruit which they could hold in their paws and hang upside down by one paw while eating with the other - almost monkey-like. Amazing! Some would perch on the edge of the bowl and peck at the fruit in a more bird-like fashion. I loved it and could have stayed there all afternoon.

There are loads of bats here in Wakayama. They start to come out a short time before dusk, once the sun has gone down. There are usually a few around our near our house. It took me a while to notice that the swallows seem to move on (roost?) late afternoon and are replaced by bats. If you don't look carefully you might not even notice the difference. The bats are a bit smaller but they fly in a very similar way to the swallows. I wonder how many breeds of bat there are in Japan. Anyway, what I like the most is that on our way to and from the gym we go past a litter river and there are always loads of bats flying all over the place. At times I wonder if one could actually crash into me, but I know it's highly unlikely. I've seen documentaries about how they use sonar or something to tell where they are going and not crash into anything. Something I've not noticed here is the noise - they don't seem to be making much noise, or maybe it's just too noisy around them and you can't hear them. I'll have to listen a bit harder!

August 2004

Chaos

I love Osaka - it's a great vibrant city. It's a wonderful place to spend time people-watching or shopping (or people-watching and shopping.) Trying to understand Japanese fashion is an experience in chaotic colour combinations, layered effects and textures. I don't claim to have any idea what is in fashion or out (either here or anywhere else). All I know is that the Japanese don't think in the same way I do. I must admit that my personal "fashion" / style involves practical clothing predominantly in black and earth mother tones (browns, golds, oranges, copper, red, etc.) The Japanese combine colours in a way that I don't understand. I find that often there are just too many colours and these are frequently colours that I don't feel combine. I understand that this is a purely western European point of view and that I am biased to this point of view, but it is my opinion none the less. Anyway, colours - too many and strangely combined. For example, green and grey or pink and orange, or red, purple and orange or grey, blue, yellow and pink. Then there's the layer thing. What's with all the vest tops, different styles and straps everywhere? I don't get it. Do you really have a bikini on under your 2 tops? What's happening here? Something else I don't understand is the use of skirts and dresses over jeans. How does that happen? Little frilly flimsy skirts over turned up jeans? On top of that what's with these funny little not quite pop socks? I'm not even sure I can explain this. Imagine below the ankle sports socks, then make them in some kind of tights material, preferably frilly. Then put them under you spiky shoes or sandals. What is that? And talking of shoes, will you learn how to buy shoes which fit and then how to walk in them?

Anyway, my initial thoughts on chaos in Osaka weren't actually going to be about clothes but about the underground (subway.) In general the train / subway system is Osaka is very good. It's clean, seems safe, is not too expensive and the trains are frequent. The lines are easy to understand and there are lots of good maps. So, where's the chaos? Try huge stations with 15 or 20 exits / entrances! How do I know where to get out? At some stations, such as the one near the castle, I must admit there are large maps showing you which exit to use and then signs showing you how to find this exit. But so many others are just major confusion. Take today. I needed to go to a bookshop in the Kita (Umeda) part of Osaka. There are several stations in the area so I chose the Umeda tube station as it was the most convenient for where I was at the time. So, I get there, tube map in hand, local map in hand and then find that I have no idea where to go. The station is vast (though I was expecting this.) There are signs all over the place but do I know what exit I need to use? Do I hell. So, I choose the ticket barrier closest to me and wander around aimlessly for a couple of minutes until bumping into a map where a Japanese couple are arguing about which exit they need to use. Once they move on I take a look at the map and become even more confused as the map has north to the east and so I have to move my map and try and work out what's happening. Finally, I work out that the best exit would be 17 or 18. So far so good. But, where are these exits? Over to my right somewhere. I go in the general direction for ages and find several exits, but not 17 or 18. I'm now lost again. I look round helplessly (and hopelessly) but people are either hurrying to their destinations or are looking at maps and frowning as much as I am. I opt for going out the nearest exit (15) and trying to find my way from the outside. Doesn't work. So I end up going into a shop and asking for directions to where I need to go. Chaos. (Incidentally their "Walk 4 blocks and then turn right" takes me 20 minutes not 10 and I end up half the way back to where I had started from before I realise I'm doing something wrong and finally get going in the right direction.)

Conclusion? Having lots of entrances / exits to these tube stations makes them feel more convenient as there's always an exit nearby! But it means you have to walk miles in the station. However, if you are going to have so many exits there need to be more maps and clear directions to where to go or we'll never get out of the station!

1st August 2004.

Heat and humidity mini blog

I've been wondering about this intense heat which seems so much hotter than the 33 or 34ºC it's supposed to be. Anyway, one of my colleagues mentioned something they have in Canada called Humidex, which is like the windchill factor, only for humidity. So when I got home from work I went right ahead and googled it. I came up with several interesting websites including the following http://www.physlink.com/Reference/Weather.cfm which has a calculator on it. What does this do? Well, you put in the temperature and the humidity and it tells you how hot it actually feels. To my surprise today's 33ºC and 71% humidity work out at a shocking 47ºC!! Explains a lot. No wonder I'm sweating so much.

27th July 2004.

Black Kites

I love watching the Black Kites soar and glide on the wind currents. There are loads of these majestic birds all around Wakayama. To begin with, during the first few days here, I confused the ones over the river with Ospreys - well it's common to see Ospreys near water, and just thought that the ones in the city around the castle were kites. But now I've found out more about birds of the region I can tell you that they are all Black Kites.

These large(ish) birds of prey aren't actually black but are dark brown, but they are more black than their cousins the Red Kites (which are now quite common in High Wycombe where my family are.) Black Kites are pretty communal birds and down by the coast near Kada you can see 8 or 10 at the same time, all swooping and soaring up and down, round and round. It must be a wonderful life, at least in the summer. Where do they go in the winter? I don't know if I'll see them here then too. I hope so. I've also been surprised here to actually here them "crying". Quite often on a calm afternoon you'll hear them calling. Are they calling to each other? or just fighting with the local crows? I have no idea but hearing them is initially quite bone-numbing - an almost prehistoric cry, kind of like a pterodactyl. At first I thought it was a young child or maybe a kitten crying but after a while I realised I was totally mistaken.
One of the things that has really surprised me about the Black Kites is their ability to fish. They have adapted perfectly to this water-rich environment and can be seen fishing both down by the sea and over the rivers around town, which leads me back to why I should have blogged this yesterday. Rafa and I were on our way to the gym when we saw a Black Kite flying low over the houses near the river we cross. All of a sudden the bird disappeared behind the houses and by the time we got to the bridge we saw it coming back up with something between its talons. It swooped and circled a bit, allowing us to get closer and I was able to see that it had a little fish in its left claw. After a couple of minutes it went up onto the roof of a large factory and started its meal. And we went off to the gym. Why is this wonderful? Well, kites are really supposed to favour carrion rather than live food but here they have really adapted to fishing. It's great to see. They really are fabulous birds. I love birds of prey and seeing them daily is just a pleasure for me and is one of the main delights of living in Wakayama. The Black Kites seem to move in zones - for a while I saw them over the main river every morning as I went to work. Then I went through a period of time seeing them while I was waiting for the train at the station, but not near the river. Then I was seeing them near the house in the afternoon. Then there was a week or so when I didn't see them at all. Luckily over the last few days they have appeared back near the house about mid afternoon. Wonderful birds. What a treat!

Originally written on 26th July 2004.

A family outing. Posted by Hello

Bicycles Posted by Hello

Mirrors (and bicycles)

Just a little blog today about mirrors. They're everywhere here in Japan. So, it begs the question, are Japanese people vain? In part, yes. They are forever looking at themselves in mirrors. You find mirrors at train stations, in department stores, in restaurants, all over the place and there are always people using them. But the mirrors I want to rant a little about are the ones in the streets, the ones that have nothing to do with vanity and everything to do with safety.

Japanese streets, well, at least here in Wakayama (out in the provinces) are pretty narrow. The buildings tend to be built right next to the roads and to have high walls. There are few front gardens and when there are they tend to have a wall around them. This makes for a large number of blind turns. You're driving (or cycling) down the road and want to turn left or right but can't see a thing. Is there are car coming? A bicycle? A pedestrian? A cat? To make matters worse, many of these roads are so narrow that two cars can only pass in certain passing places or can't pass at all and need to reverse back to the beginning of the street. As a cyclist this is quite a daunting prospect - only just being able to fit past a car - as long as it slows down and is careful. On top of that, the best way to take a corner is wide but not straight into the front of an oncoming vehicle! The answer? Mirrors strategically placed on street corners so you can see if there is something coming and take appropriate action. They are everywhere: on street corners, on blind turns in the street, outside houses so cars pulling out of garages don't crash. They are great! (though I do wonder how much I am relying on them and getting into the habit of using them at corners. How will this effect me when I go back to Mexico or the UK? We'll see.)

So, with all the mirrors all over you'd expect bicycles to have them too, I mean, cars have them as do motorbikes and mopeds. But bicycles? Believe it or not there are very few Japanese people who have mirrors on their bicycles. Fair enough, you say, you just look over your shoulder before pulling out or turning or whatever. Right. I wish. The Japanese people I have come into contact with are terrible terrible cyclists and have absolutely no idea about cycling safely. They just pull out whenever and wherever. How there aren't a huge number of fatalities every year is beyond me. I guess it's just that motorists are extremely careful when coming into contact with cyclists, which is all the time here in Wakayama as there are just so many of us.

On top of this lack of looking over their shoulders, the other thing that gets me about cycling in Japan is the fact that you can cycle on the path or on the road. This is quite convenient but what does me in is that you can cycle either with the traffic or against it. This is just a little insane, especially when you are cycling along a main road with the traffic only to see a cyclist (or 2) coming towards you. Who should go into the traffic? Who knows? And the Japanese often cycle 2 or 3 abreast so how do you get past - as well as you can. Chaos.

And what about umbrellas and parasols? The Japanese are masters of carrying things on their bikes. When it rains they have their umbrellas up. If it's sunny they've got their parasols. (Some bikes have special clips for the umbrella but most people just carry them and cycle one-handed.) It's amazing to see how many people have baby seats in front of them and then an extra child on the back! And then there are all the elderly people cycling around too. I don't remember seeing anyone over the age of 18 cycling unless they are doing it for pleasure, mountain biking or whatever. Here people of all ages cycle - from young children to old old people. It's amazing - these elderly people are so fit, often carrying heavy loads or children on their bikes too. Of course if you are young then giving your friend (or friends) a lift is no problem at all (except for the fact that the weight is too much and you will have problems moving forward and will wobble all over the street. And of course you have to work out how to balance but anything is possible. Where there's a will there's a way!)

I love using my bike. It's liberating. It's healthy and it's fun. I don't like getting wet but at least it's not rained that much recently! I just wish that I understood how the Japanese think when it comes to cycling etiquette.

P.S. I forgot to mention how people "walk" the dog while riding their bikes!!

Originally blogged on 25th July 2004.

Heat and bugs

It's hot here. Really hot. Very humid. I don't remember having ever spent such a long period of time feeling so hot and sticky. Wakayama is by the beach and so the humidity is high. I seem to spend most of my time pouring sweat (and that's not only in the gym.) I've never lived by the beach before and the heat in Mexico is very dry, even in the rainy season it doesn't feel this bad. Our house also seems to trap the heat, especially if I'm out during the day and so don't leave all the windows open. Then at night you can't leave the windows open because of all the mosquitoes. I've already got too many mossie bites and just couldn't cope with more and of course there's the noise. I just hate the buzzing they make, especially when I want to go to sleep. Nasty. Evil. Really really annoying. It's even worse when they're dying. I have this bug killer in the bedroom, you know the kind which emits some kind of smell that kills bugs. I normally turn it on an hour or so before I'm thinking of going to bed so by the time I do there are no bugs left. Anyway, a couple of nights ago I forgot to turn the damn thing on until I went to bed. So what happens? I'm just getting off to sleep when I here this horrendous noise - the death thralls of a mosquito. What a nightmare, worse than any noise I can imagine at the moment. Strike that - earthquakes make a horrible noise and that's scary too, but anyway, this mosquito was in the process of dying. So I turned on the light to see if I could put it out of it's misery but could I find it? Could I hell. In the end I went back to the living room for 20 mins and left it to die in peace.

Funny that I'm killing mosquitoes. I have no qualms about it either. I know I should do because they are fellow creatures on this earth but my vegetarian ideas (or ideals?) don't reach as far as not killing bugs. I generally only kill mosquitoes - I try to put everything else back outside or just ignore them, but mosquitoes drive me mad. Oh and cockroaches too - dirty, nasty things. Cockroaches must also die, no two ways about it. Is this really just killing for pleasure? Can I really justify killing? Probably not, then again, I can't justify my leather boots or belt or bag but I still have them. And I do eat eggs and cheese and drink milk so I'm not a vegan. That would be nice but I don't think it would be practical. I mean, living in Japan is hard enough for a vegetarian who doesn't eat fish or seafood. Eating out is a major nightmare. Half the time I worry that some kind of fish has been used to prepare the vegetable soup or whatever, but my limited Japanese can't cope with asking about that.

Originally written 23rd July 2004.

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